Hair Growth Treatments - Balancing Protein And Moisture In Black Hair
By Tami Lawrence
Achieving and maintaining a proper balance of strength (protein) and moisture can be difficult, especially for black hair. Black hair is naturally dry due to its structure and requires extra care to avoid damage. Chemical services such as relaxers can be extremely damaging to hair that does not have adequate protein, moisture, or both.
Hair problems can range from being:
- High Porosity - Unable to retain moisture
- Low Porosity - Unable to be penetrated
- High Elasticity - Stretches excessively
- Low Elasticity - Breaks without stretching
Signs of poor elasticity: When wet hair feels spongy and limp, tangles and stretches excessively without returning to its normal position. Chemical services (relaxers, color, highlights) are most commonly the cause of high porosity and low elasticity.
To balance your hair, you will need two types of treatments: one for protein, and the other for moisture. You must do deep conditioning with both separately. You will need to determine what type of treatment your hair needs. If it feels weak and limp, you will probably need a protein treatment. If it feels dry and frizzy, you will need to build up your moisture content. Once you have achieved a protein / moisture balance. You can alternate the two treatments following shampoos. If your hair is severely damaged, you may need to apply both treatments after shampooing. To do this you would first apply the protein treatment to your hair. After allowing the recommended elapsed time and following the manufacturer's instructions, rinse your hair. Second, apply the moisture treatment following the instructions and rinse.
How to apply treatments:
The best way to apply the protein treatment is with an applicator brush. You must apply the treatment to the entire hair shaft from roots to ends. Pay attention to the ends, so they will not be left untreated. Cover your head with a plastic cap and apply heat with a hooded dryer (medium heat) for 15 minutes. Do not use a blow dryer.
Like the protein treatment, the moisture treatment should be applied with an applicator brush paying close attention to the ends. Cover with a plastic cap and apply heat with a hooded dryer (medium heat) for 15 minutes. Once again, do not try to substitute the hooded dryer with a blow dryer. It will not have the same effect.
If you have applied a moisture treatment. You will need to seal in moisture with an oil based product. Oil based products contain petroleum, mineral oil, or lanolin. Most oils will fall into this category.
If you have applied a protein treatment only (no moisture), you will need to apply a water based moisturizer to hair and allow it to dry. Water based moisturizers do not contain petroleum, lanolin, or mineral oil. The first ingredient on the label should be "water." Then seal in moisture with an oil based product.
To maintain this balance daily, use your water based moisturizer first and follow with your oil based moisturizer.
